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Op Ed on Vanuatu’s expulsion of the Australian Federal Police
This is the opinion piece I have done the ABC News’ “The Drum” website.
You can find the story here, with all the comments included.
It’s not often Australians get an insight into Pacific-style politics, but last week’s expulsion of the Australian Federal Police from Vanuatu is providing it.
First, a brief recap. On April 27, Vanuatu’s prime minister Sato Kilman and his advisors arrived in Sydney from Port Vila en route to Israel. When the party tried to transit to the departure lounge, they were told they would have to complete immigration procedures. After they had passed through Customs, and were officially in Australian territory, AFP officers arrested Mr Kilman’s private secretary Clarence Marae.
Mr Kilman and the remaining members of his group travelled on to Israel. Mr Marae ended up in Brisbane, in custody, charged with conspiring to defraud the Commonwealth. Last week, Mr Kilman returned to Vanuatu, telling reporters that what happened was “kidnap and a breach of diplomatic protocol”.
On Wednesday, foreign minister Alfred Carlot announced that in response, the government had ordered the end of all AFP operations in Vanuatu, and that all officers and staff had 24 hours to leave the country. On Thursday morning, 12 AFP officers and their families returned to Australia.
Many in Australia will see Prime Minister Kilman’s response as an overreaction. But in reality he was left with little choice. This is an election year in Vanuatu, and the prime minister holds the slimmest of majorities, ruling a multi-party coalition, which, as has happened more than once in the past, can change allegiance from one leader to another.
Mr Kilman wants to get the numbers to get back into the leader’s office. To do that, he has to show MPs he is not to be messed with. Melanesia embraces strong leaders; it is the home of “big man” politics.
When the AFP appeared to engineer the arrest of one his advisors, it became a political football at home. The Vanuatu government has made the point that its issue is not with the arrest of Clarence Marae; it is with how the prime minister was treated.
Australian Foreign Minister Bob Carr has said he understands that being forced to go through immigration and fill out the required forms is something Mr Kilman would have found insulting. In its statement, the Department of Foreign Affairs says, “We regret that it was necessary to make the arrest during Prime Minister Kilman’s transit.”
But neither is an apology for what happened, and that is what Prime Minister Kilman needed in order to save face. With none forthcoming, he took the issue into his own hands.
Senator Carr may have wanted Prime Minister Kilman to reconsider, instead of losing a source of aid for the country’s police. But for Vanuatu’s leader, losing the AFP could be a price worth paying to stay in office.
Given the actions of the Australian Government over the past few months to shore up its support in Parliament, what Mr Kilman has done should not be surprising.
But it isn’t just his fellow MPs who Mr Kilman is trying to get a message to. In Australia, national politics is played on a big field. Political leaders and parties try to sell their message to an audience in the millions, spread from Perth to Hobart.
In Pacific politics, in Melanesia especially, to get elected you need to impress the constituency which put you in Parliament, and at that level, party politics mean nothing. For Sato Kilman, the voters are on Malakula Island. What adds to that mix is that Clarence Marae is also from Malakula Island.
When announcing the expulsion, Vanuatu said its issue is not with Mr Marae’s arrest, just with how Mr Kilman was treated. And Mr Marae does have form when it comes to financial issues. Twice in Vanuatu he has been convicted after being found guilty of taking bribes.
In Australia, that would probably disqualify you from being a prime ministerial advisor. But in Vanuatu, village and provincial allegiances run deep. People there are more likely to cast a vote in support of the incumbent prime minister based on how he helps someone from the home island, and there is no doubt the prime minister wants his expulsion of the AFP to send the message home that he’s being tough on his advisor’s behalf as well.
There is also the added benefit that in Melanesia, taking a political swipe at Big Brother Australia can play well just about anywhere.
It is up to the courts in Australia to find out if Mr Marae is guilty as charged. And when it comes to conducting an arrest, it is not fair to expect the AFP to get advice from diplomats or politicians on how it should be conducted.
But is it fair to expect Vanuatu to take it on the chin? As has been pointed out more than once, if a first world leader like Julia Gillard had been treated the same way, the outrage would be front page news.
A cavalcade of home movies
I’m putting in the links to some of the films I took on last year’s trip. A little late I know, but there you go.
Posted in Thoughts & musings, Travel
Tagged Baseball, Che, cuba, Cubs, freeways, Giants, Guanajuato, Highways, Maid of the Mist, Mexico, Mexico City, New York City, Niagara Falls, North Carolina, Outer Banks, Puerto Escondido, Santa Clara, sumidoro, Surf, Tiger, Travel, USA, Virgina, Wrigley Field, Ziccatela, Zipolitie
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Another day in Auckland, watching the Pacific merry go round
As I tap at the screen here in the media room in Auckland, in the room next the leaders of the Smaller Island States are apparently setting the hard and firm agenda they will be taking to all Forum leaders later this week.
If I sound a little cynical, can I quickly remind you that in previous years this meeting has come out with an agenda, which the leader’s swear by, but which, two days later, after the leaders retreat, seems to have been ignored, or forgotten. Instead they fall into line with the wishes of Australia and New Zealand. I wonder what will happen this time? There agenda does seem quite practical though. Quite changes features high, transport and labour mobility get a mention. So maybe, just maybe, they will get a word in sideways. More on this as more happens.
Interstling, but not really surprising, no mention of Fiji, despite claims by these leaders and their representatives last week, that they will pushing for the lifting of its suspension from the Forum! Sometimes, words are no more than that.
The curious tale of an aussie journo, in New Zealand to cover the Pacific Islands Forum, as the country wakes for the Rugby Word Cup to start
I know. It’s a long winded intro, but it had to be said.
I’m in New Zealsnd reporting on the Pacific Islands Forum. It’s supposed to be the major meeting of the region, worthy of all sorts of media coverage. But right now, right here, you wouldn’t know it.
The streets of Auckland are covered in banners celebrating the start of the rugby this Friday. Every second person is wearing an All Blacks jersey. It’s footy footy footy, followed by more footy, and that’s the message from the Prime Minister John Key, through to the cab driver and down to the derro on the corner rying to clean windshurlds with a dirty newspaper.
But the Forum? Forget it. I asked a heap of people on the waterfront what events were hapening in Auckland this week. “The World Cup” said all of them. “What’s the Forum?” Was the answer to my next question. You can guess what I was asking.
What makes it all the more frustrating is that any coverage from the travelling Australian Canberra Press Gallery, will only focus on the words of Australia’s Prime. Minister, keen to get her views on what’s happening in domestic politics.
Anyway. I’m here. I’ll do my best, and I can only hope you appreciate my efforts. Fair bet it’ll only bd you and me watching.
New York City. The Big Apple done and dusted
When you get to a new destination it’s always a good idea to find somewhere which makes you welcome.
For me in New York City that place became the Mulberry Street Bar in LIttle Italy. Great staff and a warm welcome. It mede me feel at home.
In fact that’s how I found the city in its entirety. It’s big and its fast, and as they say it never sleeps. But I had a ball. Met some wonderful people, some some fantastic sights. While most of my time was spent in Manhattan I did get off the island so to speak. Coney Island, Brookiyn and the Bronx got a look in. But Manhattan itself is a place you could spend a month in and see something new everyday. Probably the thing which took me by surprise is just how packed in it is. the areas you hear about like the Lower East Side, Wall Street, Chinatown and the Village are on top of each other. Stand in the middle of one, walk five minutes, and you’re in another. Good chance is you’ve visited two.
All in all it was a great wey to wind up five months as a tourist.
In a couple of days it all comes to an end as I fly back to Melbourne.
Now time to decide where’s the next destination.
A big loop round the the North East of the USA
I write this from Rockland in Maine, on the Atlantic Coast. And before you ask, the photo above was taken on the town square in Rochester Vermont. Beautiful town, lovely people. It’s one of the lucky accidents of travelling that I ended up there, but one I”m really glad I made.
So here’s a quick wrap on the trip since leaving Virginia and Chesapeake Bay.
West Virginia. Great highway.
Ohio. Beautiful farming country, but watch out for Amish. I nearly went up the back of a two horse buggy.
Indiana. Nice highway again, and I had a good salad for lunch.
Danville Illinois. Big prison and a nice Mexican restaurant.
Peoria Illinois. Picturesque, but quiet.
Chicago. Fantastic. A city that reminds me a lot of Melbourne. Very cold, windy and rainy. Went and watched a baseball game at Wrigley Field. Not the best conditions, but interesting.
Green Bay Wisconsin. Nice, but fanatical about the Packers football team.
Michigan. Here, as everywhere, it was a special treat to check out the Great Lakes. Good shipwreck Museum. Bought a knife.
Canada. Nice.
Niagara Falls. Good, but surrounded by the detritus of tourism. Rode the Maid of the Mist which was fun.
Up State New York. Beautiful. Especially the Adirondack region. Scenic hills and lakes right through.
Vermont. Very nice and beautiful as well.
Since then I’ve travelled through New Hampshire and Maine.
The trip continues.
The land of the free, the brave, and the overfed
I’ve been back in the USA for just over a week. A few days in LA, best forgotten quickly, and now on the East Coast. I’ve popped down to North Carolina, to its Outer Banks for a few days, mostly to soak up a bit of aviation history (The Wright Brothers!) but also to see a bit of its coast. (Awesome)
I write this from Tappahannock in Virginia, right near the waterways which make up Chesapeake Bay. It’s part of the whorl which I have long dreamed of seeing, having read books about its history, and also novels which feature the bay, and its many tributaries, in the story. Very impressive.
After three months in Mexico though, the US does come as a culture shock. Where life in Mexico happens on the street, and there is at best a cavalier respect for the law, and rules, here it is strictly by the book. Police and State Troopers on every road, speed limits which you should respect, and a niceness which takes a bit of getting used to. Everyone is sir, or Ma’am. and roadside and zebra crossings respected. That said, I’ve met a lot of nice people who seem happy, if not surprised, that I’ve chosen their part of the world to visit.
But, and I’m not the first person to point this out, the food here is shit. To much it, to heavily processed, and to fatty. And this comes from someone who enjoys a good meal, in particular of heavily processed fatty food. I should be in pig heaven, but sadly I’m not. One meal a day is my limit in the USA.
But all is good. I’m having fun, and I’m heading North tomorrow. Chicago and Wisconsin are my aiming points. Chicago because it sounds like a city everyone should see. Wisconsin. Because as you’ve probably gathered, I like places off the map.
Speak soon.
Farewell to Mexico and on to the land of the free
I write this from around thirty thousand feet above North America, winging my way towards Los Angeles.
Ain’t technology grand?
This flight marks an end to a three month trip through Mexico and the Caribbean, Cuba in particular. It would be very cool and new age to say that I’ve completed with trip with a new sense of reality and purpose. But those who know me, know I don’t buy into that bullshit. I can say that it has made me think about the future, and what options there are. But I also think that’s natural for anyone who’s taken an extended holiday, and got away from the usual.
But enough of that.
I can say that I have fallen in love with Mexico. A mixture of the third and the first world, with the richness and poverty of both sides in clear view. A history which goes back thousands of years, and of which its people are rightly proud, and only to happy to share with you. Although it must be said they do want to show you at a price even though it’s a cheap one.
Over the past few months I’ve paid a pittance to eat some of the best tasting and healthy food I’ve ever experienced, while also paying to much for something which could only be described as a gastronomic minefield by any dietician. I’ve made friends, partied and drank to much, been ill and been well, and to be honest, I wouldn’t give it up for anything. I’ve experienced the megatropolis that is Mexico City, the hills and native strongholds of Chiapas, the ancient city of Guanajuato, and the Pacific beaches of Oaxaca which each Winter become the home of Americans and Canadians looking to escape the snow and chills of their home states. It’s a good choice. They are some of the best beaches I’ve had the chance to sit beside, swim and surf in, or be nearby while doing fuck all. I’ve spent time in its American modelled tourist trap of Cancun. So without sounding to much like a some sort of love sonnet, let’s just say a visit there comes with my strongest recommendation.
For Cuba? Well Cuba’s interesting. The last bastion of socialism, and while it no doubt has a vitality, it’s slightly strange to a westerner like me to not see the advertising signs and obvious indications of commerce and society which we’ve come to take for granted. I like it, but probably a bit like Vietnam, more than once you found yourself talking to a local, only to find you are expected to contribute to their income, or that they are really nothing more than an aggressive tout for a cab company or casa. I’m glad I went, but like thousands of others, you can’t help but feel that when the trade embargo with the US lifts, all that will change. The amount of money that will roll in will make that inevitable. And while I sound like I’m at sixes or sevens over this, I can’t help but feel it’s a bad thing, but that it’s a bad thing most Cubans would welcome.
Anyway, now the USA, with the Big Apple and the East Coast on the agenda. I’ll have a brisket sandwich for all of you.
The last days of Mexico. For me anyway

Canyon Del Sumidoro boatride. Chiapas Mexico
As I write this I’m in my next to last week in Mexico. I’m spending 10 days away, and will be back for another four, but in reality that will be in the tourist trap of Cancun. From the advice I get you can swap that name for Surfers Paradise, Miami, Ibiza, and the Italian and French Riviera, and while you might need more money, you get the same result.
But it has been great, and while I wish I had learnt more Spanish, I have not regretted the decision to come here. Sometimes you see clear signs of poverty, and major issues certainly hit you in the face, in particular law and order. In every city and town you’ll see a strong presence of heavily armed police and militia. But I get the feeling this is done more for the benefit of people like me, as the locals have no trust or reliance in those who have the job of looking after them, and their property. And more than once I’ve heard credible stories of bribes being sought and paid. Of course if you’ve seen the news you will know about the problems along the US Mexico border. Down in the areas I’ve been in you always feel safe walking the streets day or night. But I think that’s because they are safe, with or without the police and the guns.
For these last few days I’m in San Cristabel de Las Casas, in the Chiapas region. Once again I’ve had to rug up at night to stay warm, and put blankets on the bed. Bit of a shock after more than a month near the beach. But this is a beautiful part of the world. It’s also the capital of the Mayan people, which means it’s where you find more of the indigenous people of Mexico than anywhere else. And from what I hear, they face the same social, health and rights issues as the indigenous people of Australia, the USA, Canada, and just about everywhere else.

If you want to see some photos of San Cristabel, click here, and these are some of the snaps I took of the Chiapas region.
One activity I did undertake was a trip down the Canyon Del Sumidoro, which is the massive waterway, created in 1981 when they built a Hydro Electric dam. The view through the canyon is amazing, (see here) but what is disappointing is the tons of floating plastic rubbish you see, washed into the area from cities and towns up the river.
You can find more images of this pollution here.
So on this final day I’m sitting in Rossco’s Hostel in San Cristabel, getting my stuff together in preparation for a 17 hour bus trip tomorrow to Cancun. Over the past few weeks I’ve discovered a few more backpacker subcultures, which I’ll document in the weeks ahead. The cool of the evening here means a fire is lit each night, and with an abundance of fruit and vegetables available at ridiculously cheap prices, we have been taking advantage. Guacamole seems to be the dish of choice, and most nights its like Masterchef Championship Guac Off!
With that in mind, I’m off to empty some avocadoes, and chop some onions for tonight’s challenge.
Beefy silliness with friend Pip
My great friend Pip Courtney has been in Rockhampton in Central Queensland covering Beef Week for Landline on the ABC.
You can the online page on by following this link.
http://blogs.abc.net.au/theoverflow/2012/05/beef2012.html